Friday, March 16, 2007

Cooking With Herbs

This is the class material that I presented at Ulster County's Cornell Copperative Extenstion's Spring Garden Day in 2005.

What is a culinary Herb?

For the purposes of this class, culinary herbs are the leaves (and sometimes woody tissue) of fresh or dried seed-bearing plants used in food preparation. Included are potherbs which are a group of leafy plants that are thought of as either herbs or vegetables. The term potherb originates from medieval times when the herbs were literally cooked in a pot as greens but were and are still used fresh in salads. Potherbs include arugula, burnet, borage, cress, mustard, nettles, purslane and sorrel. Herbs are not confined to tropical regions, are outdoor plants but some can be grown indoors with plenty of sunshine.

Herbs versus Spices
Spices are the seeds (nutmeg), bark (cinnamon), roots (turmeric, ginger), pod (vanilla, cardamom), or flower bud (rose hips, cloves) from plants that thrive in tropical regions.

In general, a plant’s leaves are the herb while other parts are the spice. Sometimes categories overlap because a plant can supply both herb and spice. For instance, Cilantro leaves are the herb and coriander seeds are the spice. Mustard leaves are a potherb and mustard seeds are a spice. Some herbs do not fall neatly into this definition. For instance, lavender stems, leaves and flower buds are used as an herb. Oftentimes, just the stems of Angelica are used as an herb.

Why use herbs?
Aroma, color, texture and taste to make food more tasty and appealing. Herbs contain nutrients such as chlorophyl, ascorbic acid, B vitamins, minerals and carotenoids (beta-carotine and vitamin A). Herbs can be part of a healthful diet. By heightening flavor, they can partially or totally displace sodium and fat in recipes.

Choosing herbs in menu planning
Consider the following
  • Form (fresh, dried or prepared)
  • Taste (flavor, texture, color and aroma)
  • Availability (cost and quality)
  • Origin (Country or Culture)
  • Quantity (small portion or bulk)

Sources
Catalogs/websites:
  • Penzey’s www.penzeys.com 1-800-741-7787
  • Adrianna’s Caravan www.adriannascaravan.com 1-800-316-0820
Farmers’ markets:
  • New Paltz
  • Kingston
  • Rhinebeck
Supermarkets:
  • Adam’s Fair Acre Farms
  • Emmanuel's Markets
Health Food Stores:
  • Mother Earth Storehouse
  • Sunflower Market
Books:
  • “Cooking with Herbs” & “The Herbal Pantry” by Emelie Tolley & Chris Mead
  • “The Encyclopedia of Herbs, Spices and Flavorings” by Elisabeth Lambert Ortiz
  • “The Herbfarm Cookbook” by Jerry Traunfeld

Tools & Supplies
  • Kitchen twine & cheesecloth
  • Mesh strainers (different sizes)
  • Mortar & Pestle
  • Coffee Bean Mill/Mini Food Processor
  • Chef’s knife & cutting board or Mezzaluna blade & bowl
  • Measuring spoons (mostly for dried herbs) & measuring cups (for fresh herbs).
  • Kitchen shears
  • Microwave oven to dry fresh herbs.
  • Jelly Roll pans and parchment paper
  • Powder-free latex gloves & apron
Other:
  • Hands for pinching, tearing and rubbing leaves
  • Dutch oven for frying herbs (rosemary, sage)
  • Dehydrator for raw cuisine dishes


Fresh Herbs

Heat, light and air degrades taste and texture quickly. Store herbs by wrapping the stem bottoms in a slightly moistened paper towel then place in a ziplock bag in a refrigerator drawer up to 1 week. Wash just prior to using, not before storing in the refrigerator.

Best uses
  • as uncooked ingredient in spread and dips (compound butter, herbed soft cheese)
  • as ingredient in rubs and marinades
  • as garnish when serving (raw, fried or oven-dried; whole, minced or chopped, chiffonade)
  • as infusion when steeping, extracting or pickling (tea/tisane, alcohol extract flavorings, vinegar-preserved vegetables)
  • as substitute for 4X dry herb

How to clean herbs?
For bunches:
Hold stems in a loose grip then plunge the leaves up and down in a bowl of cold water. Shake off excess water then wrap in a clean dish towel or double-layer of paper towels and gently roll to absorb remaining water. Hold stems firmly and bring the sharp edge of a chef’s knife to the top of the stems where the leaves emerge. Move the knife away in short strokes to shave off the leaves. Use whole leaves with tender stems or prepare per recipe instructions.

For sprigs and large leaves:
Rinse under cold tap water, shake off excess water and pat dry with a clean dish towels or paper towels. Use whole sprigs or prepare per recipe instructions.

How to dry fresh herbs?
Harvest herbs when they have flower buds but before they bloom for the highest concentration of essential oils and most intense flavor. Cut them in the cool of the day, either early morning or late evening.

Soft-leaf herbs like basil, chervil, tarragon and marjoram are best preserved by steeping in oil or vinegar, or freezing puree in oil. Tough-leaf herbs like rosemary, sage, thyme, winter savory and bay laurel can be hung to dry stem-end up. Tie twine around stems to make small bundles then place in a dry, well-ventilated area away from direct light such as an attic. It will take one week or more for leaves to become brittle at which time you can strip away the leaves from the branches. Alternatively, place washed and dried herbs on a clean paper towel and microwave on high power for 30-40 seconds. Store in glass container with tight-fitting lid in a dark cupboard up to 3 months.

Dried Herbs
Although they are readily available year-round in supermarkets and health food stores, buy only what you will use up to 6 months. Heat, light, air and moisture degrades taste and aroma quickly. Let your eyes and nose signal when the herbs are expired, not the date on the jar label. Store herbs in glass jars with tight-fitting lids then keep in a cupboard away from heat, light, air and moisture.

Best uses
  • as ingredient at start of cooking
  • as ingredient in rubs, spice mixes and marinades
  • as infusion when steeping or pickling (tea/tisane, vinegar-preserved vegetables)
  • as substitute for ¼ fresh herb

Prepared Herbs
Traditionally, herbs were prepared for longer storage. Some methods included air-drying, preserving in oil or vinegar or alcohol, steeping in sugar, pickling and preserved jams & jellies. Today, herb preparations are available in many forms. These include jellies/jams, oils, vinegars, sauces, pastes, marinades, extracts, syrups and condiments. Additionally, you can make your own preparations using traditional methods or modern appliances. Juicers, dehydrators, food processors, blenders and low temperature ovens are available tools for the adventurous cook.

Herb Techniques
When a recipe calls for chopped fresh herbs, generally this means just the leaves. But for herbs with soft stems, like chervil, parsley or cilantro, including the stem tips is fine. Some herbs like chives and lemongrass do not have stems to remove.

To remove small leaves from stems:
For marjoram, oregano, tarragon, thyme and savory, hold the stem bottom with one hand and with the other hand, squeeze thumb and index and middle fingers along stem then run fingers from bottom to tip in one stroke to strip away the leaves.

For rosemary, mint and lemon verbena, it is sometimes easier to run your fingers from top to bottom.

To remove medium-sized leaves from stems:
For basil and sage, squeeze your thumb nail and index finger to pinch off the leaf cluster at the tip. Hold the tip end with one hand and place the other hand just below it. In one quick motion, twist your grip down the stem to strip the leaves. Alternatively, you can pinch off one leaf at a time.

To remove feather fronds from stems:
For fennel or dill, pinch off cluster at the top. Snip off remaining fronds with kitchen shears.

Measuring Herbs
Remove stems from herb leaves. To measure whole herbs, gently press the leaves into the spoon or cup. To measure chopped leaves, scoop into spoon or cup and level the top. The more finely chopped the herb, the more herb in the same measurement so follow recipe instructions precisely are you might not have the correct amount.

Snipped: Use kitchen shears to cut small pieces of the herb leaf.
Torn: Use your hands to tear large leaves into 2 or 3 pieces.
Chiffonade: Use your knife to chop thin strips of several stacked and rolled leaves.
Whole sprigs: In general a small sprig is 3-4” long, a sprig is 5-6” long and a large sprig is 7” long.

When to Add Herbs
You always add dried herbs at the beginning of cooking so that their flavor can release and blend into the dish. But fresh herbs contain volatile essential oils that evaporate when heated. In general, herbs simmered for a half-hour will blend with other ingredients but when added at the last minute, they provide a bright, prominent flavor.

Tough-leafed herbs have robust flavor that hold up somewhat to heat. They include rosemary, thyme, sage and winter savory. Lavender buds are also included in this list. These can be added at any stage in cooking but their flavor will become more subtle as cooking time increases.

Soft-leafed herbs have delicate flavor that are sensitive to heat. They include basil, chervil, chives, coriander, dill lemon balm, lemon verbena, parsley, perilla, sorrel and tarragon. Brief heating brings out their flavor but if cooked too long they become limp and lose their color as well as flavor.

“In the middle” herbs are neither tough-leafed nor delicate-flavored and so fall some between the two ends of the spectrum. They include lemon thyme, lovage, marjoram, mint, oregano and summer savory. They can take some cooking but should be added at the end of long-cooked dishes.

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Herb infusion quantities for desserts
Here’s a list of suggested quantities for herbs to use when flavoring a liquid used in making desserts.
  • 4 sprigs Basil goes well with apricot, berries, cinnamon, citrus, nectarine, peach
  • 3 tspns fresh Lavender buds (or 1 tspn dried buds) goes well with berries, black currant, cherry, fig, ginger, citrus, plum, vanilla
  • 6 sprigs Lemon balm goes well with apricot, berries, melon, nectarine, peach
  • 6 sprigs Lemon Thyme goes well with fig, orange, pear, quince
  • 6 sprigs Lemon Verbena goes well with apricot, berries, melon, nectarine, peach, rhubarb
  • 8 sprigs Peppermint goes well with berries, chocolate, melon, mango
  • 2 sprigs Rosemary goes well with apple, caramel, fig, grape, pear
  • 2 sprigs Sage goes well with blueberry, cherry, lemon
  • 10 medium leaves Scented Geranium goes well with apple, apricot, berries, chocolate, lemon
  • 4 sprigs Tarragon goes well with apricot, chocolate, citrus
  • 6 sprigs English Thyme goes well with cranberry, date, fig, orange, pear

FYI… Do you know?
  • Tea is made by steeping the leaves of the shrub Camilia sinensis but beverages made by steeping parts of any other herb are technically called tisanes or infusions. Tisanes are popularly called herb teas. They contain none of the tannin and caffeine found in conventional teas and many make refreshing beverages drunk either hot or cold.
  • Herbes de Provence is a mixture of herbs that flourish in the hills of Southern France in the hot summer months. They include thyme, marjoram, lavender, savory, rosemary, oregano.
  • Bouquet Garni is the French term for “a bundle of herbs”. A fresh form consists of 3 sprigs parsley, 1 sprig thyme and 1 bay leaf. A dried version consists of equal parts of these herbs tied in cheesecloth.
  • Fines Herbs is a traditional blend of four subtle herbs: parsley, chervil, chives and tarragon in equal parts. Finely chopped and used fresh, it is enhances green salads, egg dishes such as omelets and poached chicken or flounder. Heat diminishes the flavors so be sure to use toward end of cooking. Also makes a delicious garnish.
  • Fresh herbs can be used to flavor beverages. Mint is the most widely used with fruit drinks but borage, parsley, lemon balm, thyme, basil and dill work well also. Stronger herbs such as chives, cilantro and tarragon are better with vegetable juices.
  • In parts of China, tea-smoking is used to add color and a smoky flavor to foods such as duck or chicken but does not actually cook the food.
  • For ancient Romans, Dill was a symbol of vitality. For ancient Greeks, it was a remedy for hiccups.
  • Italian Pesto is also known as Pistou in France. It is best made with a mortar and pestle.
  • Parsley is the key herb in (French) Persillade and (Italian) Gremolata. Persillade is a mixture of finely chopped parsley leaves and garlic that is sauteed and added at the last minute to broiled lamb, fried fish, chicken or vegetables. Gremolata is a Milanese flavoring mixture of sauteed orange and lemon zest, finely chopped garlic and parsley. It is traditionally sprinkled over braised meats at the last minute when serving.
  • Ancient Greeks and Romans used sorrel to aid digestion.
  • Lemon balm is the basis for the cordial eau de Carmes and is also used in various liquers.
  • Some well-known liquers are made from a distillation of herbs and spices. The recipes are kept secret. Benedictine and Chartreuse are two examples from France while Italy produces Galliano and Strega and Scotland produces Drambuie.
  • Epazote leaf is used in Mexican cuisine as a digestive into bean dishes as well as to add a subtle anise-like flavor.
  • Sassafras leaf is used in Gumbo, the classic New Orleans dish.
  • Shiso Perilla leaf is used to flavor and color Japanese pickled Ginger which is served with Sushi.

Kitchen Herbs

Basil It is one of the most important culinary herbs. The Greek name for it means “King”. There are many types of basil which vary in size, color and flavor. Freshly torn leaves are better than cut when used raw. Pesto is a classic Italian sauce made of basil, garlic, parmesan and pine nuts but makes a wonderful marinade also. Italian cooks preserved their prolific basil crop by filling a jar with fresh leaves, lightly salting them and filling the jar with olive oil then closing with a tight-fitting lid and storing in the refrigerator. Traditional to Mediterranean countries.

Bay Originally from Asia Minor, it has been in the Mediterranean region for so long that it is thought of as a native. Whole leaves release more flavor when shredded or chopped. Remove before serving. Traditional to Mediterranean countries and the Middle East.

Chives Add at last minute since cooking diminishes flavor. Snip with scizzors. Traditional to France.

Cilantro (Coriander) Fresh cilantro does not keep well and the dried form is not comparable. Do not remove the root or stems until ready to use. Latin and Asian dishes specialize in using the roots for added intensity. Discard wilted leaves. All parts of the plant are used and each has its own distinct flavor. The leaves are faintly anise-like, the seeds are slightly like orange peel and the root is more intense and bitter-flavored than the leaves. Traditional to the Middle and Far East but widely used in cuisines around the world especially Latin America.

Dill Use only fresh leaves as dried leaves do not retain much flavor. Cooking diminishes flavor so add just before serving. Very good in pickling. Traditional to Scandinavia, Germany and Central and Eastern Europe.

Lemon Balm Fresh is preferable to dried. Add fresh chopped leaves to a fruit salad or stewed fruits. Makes (Melissa) a refreshing relaxing tea. Traditional to Mediterranean countries.

Lemon Verbena The leaves are strongly perfumed with the scent of lemons. It is native to Chile but was brought to Europe by the Spaniards where it was used in scenting soaps and cosmetics. It is used as a substitute for lemongrass in Asian dishes. It is good fresh in fruit drinks especially peaches strawberries, licorice or mint tisanes, fruit salads or infused in custard-based dessert sauces. Traditional to South America and Mediterranean countries.

Lemongrass Use fresh stalks as whole or chopped. Bruise stem to release flavor. Use only the lower 4-6 inches discarding the upper fibrous part. Soak dried stalks in hot water before use. One teaspoon ground is equivalent to one stalk. Traditional to Southeast Asia especially in Thailand and Vietnam although widely used in India, Africa, Australia, South America and parts of the U.S.

Mint There are several hundred known varieties of mint which can be used in sweet or savory dishes. Popular varieties include peppermint, red spearmint, Morrocan spearmint, apple mint, chocolate mint, pineapple mint. Spearmint is preferred for sauce or jelly accompanying lamb. It is also a popular tisane in North Africa and the Middle East and for Mint Jelup in Kentucky. In the West, peppermint is rarely used in savory dishes but is used to flavor cordials, liquers, candy and desserts. It has a stronger aroma and is most often used as peppermint oil when flavoring candy and chocolate. Traditional to the Middle East, North Africa and Mediterranean countries.

Marjoram and Oregano These two herbs are closely related and are usually classified together. Marjoram has a more delicate flavor. Oregano is actually a wild form of marjoram and has a more potent flavor. Oregano is the quintessential pizza flavoring but is especially good in tomato-based dishes. Traditional to Mediterranean countries.

Parlsey There are two main varieties – curly and flat-leaf. Flat-leaf has darker leaves and is best for cooked dishes as it is more flavorful and holds up better to heat. Both are good for garnishing. Traditional to Europe and Middle East.

Rosemary It is indigenous to Mediterranean region where it thrives in the calcium-rich soil, the dry climate and the salty sea spray. It has a strong flavor that is pungent yet flavorful. In Italy, it is preferred with veal, poultry and lamb dishes. In Northern Europe, it is used in sausage mixtures. It is good with strongly flavored vegetables, jams & jellies and even wine punches. Stems stripped of their leaves make good skewers for grilling vegetables. Traditional to the Middle East, Mediterranean countries and Greece.

Sage It is very aromatic when fresh but its flavor is strengthened when dried. Italian cooks use it in meat dishes especially calves’ liver and veal. German cooks add it to eel dishes. French cooks use it with pork, veal and some sausages. In Greece, it is a popular tisane. In the Middle East, it is added salads. Traditional to Spain, France and Italy.

Sorrel It is an ancient potherb that was used in Egypt in the times of the Pharoahs but is still used in modern Egyptian cooking. It is popular in Europe, especially in France where it is used to make classic dishes like sorrel soup or salmon with sorrel sauce. The two most available species are Garden sorrel and French sorrel. Traditional to France.

Tarragon Dried leaves quickly lose their flavor but are a good substitute for bay leaf. French tarragon (aka true tarragon) has a delicate anise-like flavor and is preferable to Russian tarragon which has a slightly bitter, more pungent flavor. Tarragon’s flavor diffuses quickly throughout dishes so be sure to use it sparingly. Traditional to France.

Thyme There are about 100 species of Thyme yet three are sufficient for culinary purposes. Its flavor is versatile and combines well with other herbs. It aids in digestion of fatty foods and greatly enhances the taste of mutton, pork, duck or goose. French Thyme grows wild and profusely in southern France. Lemon Thyme has a citrus perfume and makes a nice tisane. All thymes taste good in slow-cooked foods especially stews and soups, sauteed or baked vegetables, in tomato-based sauces, stuffings, roast meats and poultry and breads. Traditional to Mediterranean countries and Greece.

Recipes
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Herb-infused Milk or Cream
Yield: 2 cups

Whenever you make a dessert with milk or cream, try substituting this flavored version for an interesting change. The flavored milk works well when making custard sauce or pastry cream. The flavored cream works well when making whipped cream or butter.

2 cups milk or cream, plus an additional 2 Tbs, if needed
Herb to infuse (see “Herb infusion quantities for desserts” )

Pour milk or cream into a small saucepan and place over medium-heat. As soon as the liquid comes to a full boil, remove from heat. Immerse the herbs in the liquid then cover with a lid and let steep for 30 minutes. Strain the liquid through a sieve, using a wooden spoon to press herb into the sieve.

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Herb-infused Simple Syrup
Yield: 1 cup

Try replacing this flavored version the next time you make a sorbet or toss it into a fresh fruit salad.

1 cup sugar Herb to infuse (see “Herb infusion quantities for desserts” )
¾ cup water

Combine sugar and water in a small saucepan and place over medium-heat. As soon as the sugar is dissolved and the syrup comes to a full boil, immediately remove from heat then submerge herbs in the liquid. Cover the pan and let steep for 30 minutes. Strain the syrup through a sieve, using a wooden spoon to press the herb into the sieve. Can be stored in a sealed bottle or jar in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.

Sparkling Herb Sodas
Half fill a 12-ounce glass with ice cubes. Add 2 tablespoons of herb-infused simple syrup then top off with sparkling mineral water or club soda. Garnish with fresh herb leaf or sprig.

Lemon Verbena Fruit Salad
In a large bowl, toss lemon verbena simple syrup and 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice over a mixture of sliced ripe fruit such as peaches, apricots, sweet cherries, grapes, kiwi, mango, strawberries and blueberries. Garnish with thin ribbons of lemon verbena leaves.

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Herb Tisane
Yield: ½ cup

Oftentimes dried herbs are used for tisanes but fresh herbs are better still.

4 sprigs fresh lemon verbena
5 sprigs fresh spearmint
1 small sprig fresh rosemary, about 2-3 “ long

Pour herbs in a warmed empty teapot. Bring 3 cups of water to a boil then pour into teapot with herbs. Cover and let sit for 10 minutes. Filter through a mesh strainer. Serve immediately.

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Herb Butter
Yield: ½ cup

This flavored butter is good spread thinly on bread for sandwiches or served alongside broiled meat or fish.

½ cup unsalted butter, at room temperature
½ Tb fresh tarragon, chopped
1 Tb fresh chives, chopped
1 Tb Dijon mustard
1 Tb fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped salt & ground black pepper to taste

Use a spoon to blend together all the ingredients. Let stand, covered on a cool spot for at least 1 hour. Use small melon scoop to form balls. Chill to firm up before serving.
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Herb Oil #1
Yield: 3 cups

This oil is made with fresh herbs that have tender leaves and useful when you want a mild or sweet aroma such as basil, chervil, parsley, cilantro and mint.

Blanch herbs (with stems) in boiling water for 10 seconds then quickly set in ice cold water.
Set on paper towels to dry a few minutes. Measure herbs and place in a blender then add an equal amount of extra virgin olive oil. Puree to a smooth paste. Transfer to a clean bottle or jar and add 3 times more extra virgin olive oil as paste. Close with a tight fitting lid and shake to combine thoroughly. Store at room temperature for one day then filter using a coffee filter or several layers of cheesecloth. Store, tightly covered, in the refrigerator up to 1 week.
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Herb Oil #2
Yield: 3 cups

This oil is made with fresh herbs that are stronger in texture and useful when you want a more assertive flavor such as thyme, rosemary, marjoram and oregano.

Separate leaves from the stems and discard stems. Mince herbs by hand. Mix 1 cup herb with 2 cups canola oil in a clean jar with tight fitting lid. Shake well and let sit at room temperature for at least 2 hours. Do not strain. Store, tightly covered, in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.
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Parsley-garlic oil
Yield: About 1 cup

This is wonderful stirred into sauces, soups and braised dishes or blended into vinaigrettes, marinades, dips and spreads.

2 bunches flat-leaf parlsey, stems removed, makes about 1 cup tightly packed
6 large garlic cloves
Juice of one lemon, seeds removed
1/3 to ½ cup extra virgin olive oil

Place garlic, parsley and lemon juice in a bowl of a mini-food processor and puree for a few seconds to mince garlic. Puree for a few minutes while adding olive oil in a thin stream through opening in processor lid. Pour mixture into ice cube trays. Once frozen, transfer ice cubes to plastic container or zip-lock bags. Store in freezer up to 4 months. Thaw in refrigerator.

Hot and Crusty Herbed Garlic Toast
Preheat oven to 400F. Slice baguette bread diagonally into 1-inch thick pieces. Brush parsley-garlic oil on both sides of bread slices, bake on parchment-lined jelly roll pans for 20 minutes (turn bread slices midway).

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Herb Salt
Yield: About 1½ cups

This seasoned salt is ideal for sprinkling over cooked meat, poultry or fish before broiling or roasting.

1 cup salt, preferably sea salt
4 Tbs fresh rosemary leaves
4 dried bay leaves, crumbled
1 Tb fresh oregano leaves
4 Tbs fresh thyme leaves

Combine all ingredients in a mortar and crush with a pestle. Transfer to an air-tight container and store away from light.
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Tarragon Vinegar
Yield: 2 cups

White-wine vinegar flavored with tarragon is a useful and flavorful in salad dressings or to deglaze a skillet.

2 large sprigs tarragon, about 7” long

Place tarragon sprigs in a sterilized canning jar. Heat 2 cups vinegar in a small saucepan over medium heat. Just before it starts to boil remove from heat and pour into jar. Seal with a lid and store away from light and heat. Infuse for at least 2 weeks. Keeps up to 3 months.
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Pesto
Yield: 1 cups

This classic Italian sauce is also made in France where it is called Pistou, also the name of a classic soup dish. It pairs well with pasta noodles, served hot or at room temperature. It also goes well with vegetable or chicken broth-based soups.

1 bunch Basil, stems removed (about 3 cups)
4 garlic cloves
½ cup fruity extra-virgin olive oil or just enough to blend
Salt to taste
Optional: ¼ cup fresh grated parmesan cheese & 2 Tbspn raw pine nuts

Puree basil, garlic and optional pine nuts in a food processor. With machine running, pour in olive oil in a thin stream, just enough to blend. Optionally, add the cheese and pulse to blend. Add salt to taste. Will keep in a covered jar in the refrigerator up to 1 week. Bring to room temperature before serving.

Green Mayonnaise
Yield: 1/3 cup

This makes a tasty spread for sandwiches and an excellent dip for french fries or grilled vegetables.

Use a spoon to blend 2 tablespoons pesto with ¼ cup mayonnaise. Will store tightly covered in the refrigerator for 3-4 days.

Herb Salad
Yield: 3 cups

This aromatic salad makes a tasty side dish for grilled fish. Try it on a platter as a bed of greens for grilled fish and let them wilt to release their aromas.

½ cup each of fresh small spearmint, French tarragon leaves & fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
1 cup watercress leaves
¼ cup sorrel leaves, chopped into ribbons
3 Tbs fruity extra virgin olive oil
Juice of 1 lemon, seeds removed
Pinch of salt
Optional: 12 nasturtium flowers as garnish

In a large bowl, toss greens with olive oil, lemon juice and salt to combine well. Serve immediately. Note: Withhold olive oil, lemon juice and salt if you want to store it in a plastic wrap sealed bowl in the refrigerator until the next day.
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Cucumber, Yogurt & Mint Dip
Yield: 2 cups

In Indian cuisine, Raita or Yogurt Dip is eaten with a spoon or used as a condiment for bread, raw or grilled vegetables and intensely spiced meat.

½ seedless cucumber, peeled and finely chopped
1½ cups plain yogurt
20 fresh mint leaves, preferable spearmint, finely chopped
1 tspn salt

Combine all ingredients in a bowl. Serve at room temperature. Can be stored tightly covered in the refrigerator until the next day. Variation: Add 1 large sweet onion such as Vidalia or Walla Walla, peeled & thinly sliced & 2 Tbs coarsely chopped cilantro.
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Melissa (Lemon Balm) Wine Cooler
Yield: About 3 quarts

1 lb white peaches, peeled, pitted and pureed
3 bottles Sauvignon Blanc, chilled
1 bunch fresh lemon balm, coarsely chopped (about 4 oz), reserve some leaves for garnish
Sugar to taste

Mix peach puree and sugar to taste in a bowl. Stir in chopped lemon balm leaves and 2 bottles of wine. Leave to macerate in the refrigerator for 2 or more hours. When ready to serve, strain and pour into a punch bowl then stir in the last bottle of wine. Garnish with fresh lemon balm leaves and serve.
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Peppermint Vodka
Yield: About 1 pint

1 pint Vodka 1 cup fresh peppermint leaves

Pour the vodka and peppermint leaves in a clean, dry glass jar with a tight lid. Let stand in a cool, dark place for 4 days. Taste and let stand for another 4 days if desired. Strain through a funnel lined with cheesecloth into a clean, dry bottle. Cork or cover tightly then store in a dark place for up to 1 year.

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Herb Braised Lamb Shanks
Yield: 4 servings

These slow-cooked shanks go well with roasted root vegetables, baked squashes, polenta or wide pasta noodles.

4 lamb shanks, trimmed of excess fat
1 large spanish onion, peeled & sliced
12 sprigs fresh thyme
1 large carrot, peeled and cut in ½” slices
8 sprigs fresh rosemary
8 large garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
2 Tbs crumbled bay leaves
1 cup Cabernet Sauvignon
¼ cup finely chopped fresh parsley
1 cup low-sodium vegetable stock
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt & black pepper to taste

  1. In a large bowl, toss lamb shanks with olive oil, half the herbs (thyme, rosemary & bay leaves). Transfer to a large zip-lock bag and marinate overnight in the refrigerator.
  2. Season lamb shanks with salt and pepper. Coat the bottom of a dutch oven with olive oil and place over medium-high heat until oil begins to sizzle. Brown the shanks on all sides then remove to a platter. Over medium heat, saute onions, carrot and garlic until softened. With the back of a wooden spoon., scrape the brown bits from the bottom of the pan. Add a little more olive oil if needed.
  3. Preheat oven to 450F. Place the remaining half of the herbs (thyme, rosemary & bay leaves) among the vegetables. Return the lamb shanks to the dutch oven and pour the wine scraping the bottom of the pan to loosen any remaining brown bits. Add the vegetable stock then season with salt and black pepper. Lower to 425F and place the uncovered dutch oven to roast for 10 minutes. Lower to 350F, cover with tight-fitting lid and roast for 90 minutes for medium-rare. Test the internal temperature of the meat to make sure it has reached 140F. Transfer the meat to a platter and cover with foil to let rest 10 minutes.
  4. Remove sprigs from the dutch oven. Skim off as much fat as possible. Transfer to a blender to puree. Pour through a mesh strainer into a sauce pan then reheat over medium heat. The sauce will be intensely flavored so a little is need to dress the shanks. Sprinkle parsley on top just when serving.

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Herb Seafood Stew
Yield: 6 servings

Use whatever combination of seafood and shellfish appeals to you or is available at the market but avoid strong-flavored fish such as salmon.

1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
2 large leeks, white part only, ¼ “ slices
1 Tb red pepper flakes
2 red bell pepper, seeds removed,
1 cup dry white wine coarsely chopped
1 lb mussels, beards removed
7 large garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
1 lb medium shrimp, peeled, deveined
2 oz tomato paste
1 lb cod or red snapper, chopped into 1” cubes
2 TBs green pitted olives
1 cup coarsely chopped fresh parsley
1 large pinch saffron
1 cup torn fresh basil leaves
2 Tbs coarsely chopped fresh oregano
1 cup water
Salt & black pepper to taste

  1. Heat oil and red pepper flakes in a large dutch oven over medium heat. Add bell peppers, leeks and garlic until softened but not browned. Stir in the tomato paste, wine, water, saffron, olives and a pinch each of salt and black pepper. Increase to medium-high heat to simmer 5 minutes.
  2. Add mussels to the pot and cover tightly until mussels open, about 5 minutes. Discard any remaining closed mussels. Gently stir in the shrimp and fish cubes and cover again. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook until fish becomes firm but not tough, about 5-7 minutes. Stir in the herbs (parsley, basil, oregano). Season with additional salt and black pepper if needed. Serve immediately with lemon wedges and crusty bread.

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